September 25, 2022

To ascend the 14 peaks above 8000 meters on the earth, for skilled mountaineers, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime aim that solely 50 climbers have achieved.

Nepalese mountaineer Sanu Sherpa is the primary to attain this feat twice. Final month, this high-altitude mountain information, for the second time in his life, reached the summit of Gasherbrum II (8,035 metres) in Pakistan, to escort one among his shoppers, a Japanese mountaineer.

He had simply set the historic document for the double ascent of “8000”, figuring out the 14 summits above 8000 meters above sea degree, the best peak on the earth, and he has already ascended them at the very least twice every.

“What I’ve completed shouldn’t be rocket science. I am simply doing my job,” the 47-year-old advised AFP merely.

Praised by the Nepalese Minister of Tradition and Tourism

However the Sanu Sherpa however achieved a feat which was praised by the Nepalese Minister of Tradition and Tourism, Jeevan Ram Shrestha, contemplating it “a supply of inspiration to mountaineers everywhere in the world”.

He started his mountaineering profession as a service and canteen assistant on expeditions.

He reached his first 8,000-meter summit, Chu Oyu, in 2006, carrying outdated climbing footwear given to him by a colleague. Then he was main a bunch of South Koreans.

‘I needed to make the double ascent’

“I had the impression that the Korean mountaineers wouldn’t have the ability to attain the summit, nevertheless, if I failed, I needed to take the chance of not discovering a brand new project after I returned,” he says.

After Zhou Ouyu, “One among my overseas mates suggested me to strive the remaining seven peaks, as an alternative of climbing the identical mountain again and again,” he recollects, “I advised myself then that I may and may do double ascents from all of the mountains” over 8,000 sq. meters in top.

In 2019, he twice overcame half of the 14 highest peaks on the earth.

“triple ascent”

The Sanu Sherpa originated within the Sankuwasabha district in jap Nepal, dwelling to Mount Makalu, the fifth highest peak on the earth.

When a lot of his companions left to climb the mountains, younger Sanu most popular to remain in his village to develop potatoes and corn and take yaks to graze.

However on the age of thirty, he ended up leaving, changing into a mountain information just like the others, hoping that this exercise would meet the wants of his eight members of the family and in addition fulfill his easy dream: “to arm the mountain with tools.”

Now, having simply returned to Kathmandu from Pakistan, Sanu Sherpa is getting ready to climb the summit of Manaslu, a summit he has already climbed 3 times, to take a shopper there.

“I can obtain the triple ascent” of the opposite peaks, he asserts, earlier than including: “It might even be a matter of luck.”

“Lethal Zone”

It has already reached three out of 14 peaks of “8000” 3 times. He has even reached the summit of Everest seven occasions.

The Sherpas have at all times taken care of logistics and safety and ensured the success of the expeditions undertaken by these overseas climbers. The rise of the “roof of the world” prices his clients on common greater than 45 thousand {dollars}.

Climbers from elsewhere have lengthy overshadowed the Nepalese mountain guides from the Everest valleys, they usually kind the idea of the Himalayan mountaineering trade.

Solely not too long ago have their very own exploits steadily been acknowledged. However they pay a heavy value, their occupation is harmful. After 8000 metres, the place oxygen is scarce, mountaineers enter the “lethal zone”. Yearly, greater than ten climbers die within the “8000” of Nepal. A couple of third of Everest’s deaths are from Nepalese guides and porters.

What do you do moreover climbing?

Sanu Sherpa says, “I got here throughout so many useless our bodies alongside the mountain, how would my household and youngsters stay if I met the identical destiny?”

The Sherpa household usually tells him that he’s bored with him within the mountains and now it’s time to hold his icy axe.

“Generally I wish to cease and generally I do not (…) What do I do aside from climbing? There is no such thing as a different perspective.”

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